tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9829426864168072472024-03-05T06:20:29.658-08:00Nadine's PatternsNadinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11767954670675353198noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-4348599272229016762013-01-01T08:48:00.001-08:002013-01-01T09:03:52.343-08:00Kissed My Neck Hat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Buy on Ravelry for $2.50</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/purchase/nadine-borovicka-designs/132807"><img border="0" src="http://www.ravelry.com/images/shopping/buy-now.gif" /></a></div>
Nadinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11767954670675353198noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-18518573708675301762012-10-19T11:39:00.000-07:002012-10-19T11:52:03.697-07:00Wild Ramp Crochet Market Bag<br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; font-size: 18pt;">Wild Ramp
Crochet Market Bag</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Crochet
pattern by Nadine Borovicka</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: blue;">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com</span></span></a></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: blue;">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com</span></span></a></div>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">A market bag
for shopping at your favorite local farmer’s market.</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dls/nadine-borovicka-designs/122219?filename=Wild_Ramp_Crochet_Market_Bag-_Crochet.pdf">download now</a>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Materials:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">240
yards of a worsted weight cotton yarn (can also use another non-stretchy fiber)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Size
H crochet hook</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Darning
needle</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Crochet
Stitch Marker</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Scissors</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Abbreviations:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Ch-
chain stitch </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Sc-
single crochet</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Dc-
double crochet</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Inc-
increase, stitch twice in the stitch of previous row increasing your stitch
count by one</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Hdc-
half double crochet</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Sl
st- slip stitch</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">St(s)-
stitch(es)</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Directions:</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Bag
Bottom:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Tie
a slip knot in the end of your yarn, leaving a tail of about 5 inches to weave
in when you are finished.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span></o:p></span><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Chain
2 stitches.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; mso-no-proof: yes;"><v:shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" filled="f" id="_x0000_t75" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" stroked="f">
<v:stroke joinstyle="miter">
<v:formulas>
<v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0">
<v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0">
<v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1">
<v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2">
<v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth">
<v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight">
<v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1">
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</v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:formulas></v:stroke></v:shapetype></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Work
8 sc stitches into the second chain from hook.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ch 1.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWvmbr2CHoBrhh-YlBzAApqwZ7y8VcDo0tWxj2zSJpMZr3g71u9CdANIwwcrBbsoBpOKWv-zl8SXqiw-z94dMpMiQ8kge0ObNUGNOHpOyO5_5L6NB5RNQAISLiSEURIWsjxZb6YafnOtU/s1600/DSCF5879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWvmbr2CHoBrhh-YlBzAApqwZ7y8VcDo0tWxj2zSJpMZr3g71u9CdANIwwcrBbsoBpOKWv-zl8SXqiw-z94dMpMiQ8kge0ObNUGNOHpOyO5_5L6NB5RNQAISLiSEURIWsjxZb6YafnOtU/s320/DSCF5879.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">You
will now begin working in the round to complete the bottom of the bag.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Round
1: Dc twice into each sc of the previous row (16 sts)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Round
2: [Dc 1, inc] around (24 sts)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Round
3: [Dc 2, inc] around (32 sts)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Round
4: [Dc 3, inc] around (40 sts)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Round
5: [Dc 4, inc] around (48 sts)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Round
6: [Dc 5, inc] around (56 sts)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Round
7: [Dc 6, inc] around (64 sts)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Round
8: [Dc 7, inc] around (72 sts)</span></div>
<br />
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Work
a HDC into next stitch, then a sc into next stitch, then a sl st into the next
stitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This will taper the edge of the
round so it blends into the circle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyW07porTn_sZyEfGIN79-npM5SqL3GKx44CAlOjvPXYMZ9qZ9FE6qqY7WvsKvrIl4JOGuHMGCA9h8ArPYtz7UzZLosbV4K8nYVgBaD50KNP-xSacetP2nxOOpwL4g57SZHJ-XPzplnm0/s1600/DSCF5882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyW07porTn_sZyEfGIN79-npM5SqL3GKx44CAlOjvPXYMZ9qZ9FE6qqY7WvsKvrIl4JOGuHMGCA9h8ArPYtz7UzZLosbV4K8nYVgBaD50KNP-xSacetP2nxOOpwL4g57SZHJ-XPzplnm0/s320/DSCF5882.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Bag
Body:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">You
will now begin working on the chain stitches that make up the body of the bag.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Set
up round: *Ch 5, skip 3 sts, sc 1 into next st, repeat from * around until you
get back to the beginning of this round.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ch 5 and sc into the first ch 5 loop you created.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You will be skipping 4 sc in your bag base to
do this last st.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="background: black; border: 1pt black; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 0pt; layout-grid-mode: line; mso-ansi-language: X-NONE; mso-bidi-language: X-NONE; mso-border-alt: none black 0in; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: X-NONE; mso-font-width: 0%; padding: 0in;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Pattern
rounds: *Ch 5, sc around the ch 5 loop below, repeat from * around until you
have completed 19 rounds</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">This
section is optional.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I like to put a few
rounds of single crochet around the top of my bag.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But if you think you are going to run out of
yarn, you can skip straight to the straps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If you want to do this section follow these instructions:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Row
1: After working the last sc of the pattern round, work one more sc around the
same ch 5 loop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>*Sc in next sc, 3 sc
around the next ch 5 loop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Repeat from *
around until you get back to the start of this round.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Row
2 + 3: Sc in each sc around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span></o:p></span><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Bag
Strap:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Work
10 sc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you skipped the sc rows, you
will be working 3 sc into the Ch 5 loop you ended in (you will be using your
last sc from the body section as your first sc for the strap), 1 sc into the
next sc, and 5 sc into the next Ch 5 loop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If you did the sc rows, you will just work 10 sc into 10 sc.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">*Ch
1, turn your work, work 10 sc across.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Repeat from * until your strap is approximately 15 inches long (This can
be as long or as short as you want it, keep in mind it will stretch with weight).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When you finish your last row, make sure that
when you fold your strap over you can still work the next connecting row.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You should finish so when you hold the bag up
by the strap and you trace down the strap, you will end up on the outside of
the bag.</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1f2gmbFTySPqKbIo49fRMLpbqzlyzIUV2vPZ5zakifDfINaH3BMdS_8MHXvUgYOR0v75BPynZ1rAn3vJfOoKLaGQtqberohzRKRJNYtwW9UzZ9ePRS5DCLOASMirGsa5WhATZgwK6Ys/s1600/DSCF5892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1f2gmbFTySPqKbIo49fRMLpbqzlyzIUV2vPZ5zakifDfINaH3BMdS_8MHXvUgYOR0v75BPynZ1rAn3vJfOoKLaGQtqberohzRKRJNYtwW9UzZ9ePRS5DCLOASMirGsa5WhATZgwK6Ys/s320/DSCF5892.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Join
your strap to the opposite side of the bag by working a row of sc around both
the stitches on the strap and the stitches of the top of the bag.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cbYjeQD08UO_sqBj04sH0LTy8_gwIGcioi4SIrpzjbWr9A_bDpv1OGV49pbikOzhhDPu_i66JcHDZQNAuEsfE2_E5_6kwfCOkZNsLE87k4R_pZL7r_gLvngiNwC-SHbVzEzJKLiJtW8/s1600/DSCF5887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cbYjeQD08UO_sqBj04sH0LTy8_gwIGcioi4SIrpzjbWr9A_bDpv1OGV49pbikOzhhDPu_i66JcHDZQNAuEsfE2_E5_6kwfCOkZNsLE87k4R_pZL7r_gLvngiNwC-SHbVzEzJKLiJtW8/s320/DSCF5887.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnYcIg6DEq-tThI6_XrTKe07CuBRb4F7rLkrfFg30N9G-Q9UxrIybDgpEBtgAUt42P-WlGPnOUFDP4UAFDFJ_1aOe2MNvkkcHgKZgdCV2Kc6CEA1hQWMDf9nWo_zGt9c2hHLKrpkTV5Bw/s1600/DSCF5890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnYcIg6DEq-tThI6_XrTKe07CuBRb4F7rLkrfFg30N9G-Q9UxrIybDgpEBtgAUt42P-WlGPnOUFDP4UAFDFJ_1aOe2MNvkkcHgKZgdCV2Kc6CEA1hQWMDf9nWo_zGt9c2hHLKrpkTV5Bw/s320/DSCF5890.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif";">Cut
your yarn and weave in your ends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Copyright
© Nadine Borovicka 2012 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be
reproduced or distributed without consent from the author.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<br />Nadinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11767954670675353198noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-59281188776930046352011-03-11T12:06:00.000-08:002011-03-11T12:44:13.805-08:00Tulle Dish Scrubbers- CrochetTulle Dish Scrubbers<br />Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a> <div><div><div><br /><div align="left"><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dls/nadine-borovicka-designs/60551?filename=Tulle_Dish_Scrubbers-_Crochet.pdf">download now</a> </div><div align="left"><br />A crocheted dish scrubber that is great to use to remove that stuck on stuff. But it is gentle enough to not ruin your dishes. One side is smoother while the other has ridges from working in the back look. Made from a roll of tulle that can be found in your local craft stores wedding aisle, I can get about 4 or 5 smaller or 2 to 3 larger scrubbers from each roll.<br />Materials:<br />1, 6 inch roll of tulle- usually about 25 yards long<br />Size I crochet hook<br />Scissors<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />SC- single crochet<br />Dec- decrease<br />DC- double crochet<br />Ch- chain<br />BLO- back loop only<br />St(s)- stitch(es)<br /><br />Directions:<br /><br />Prepare Tulle-<br />Take the roll of tulle and cut it in half lengthwise. This should give you two strips of tulle approximately 25 yds long and 3 inches wide. These can be tied together and rolled into a ball to work from. Your cut doesn’t have to be super straight. The strips will be bunched up when you work with them, so uneven edges won’t show. And knots in the strips aren’t a problem. The ends of the knot can be moved to the inside of the scrubber to provide a bit of stuffing.<br /></div><div align="left">Small Scrubber (approximately 3 inch diameter)-<br />Front Back<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifV-pA-eR1lPO_ztz9IUGGVw_hEfgMPgpmqTGr-rBpa-vx3v4kXBjPMrO-Ki83ZHpPDckjqwah5eqXOfrot0hiQhT31AM02JAuMC0kmwDRpw-oPU6hryCpcMbECk1c8irkslTQGFizZ9Y/s1600/Tulle+Scrubber+small+frong.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 150px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582919528149449938" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifV-pA-eR1lPO_ztz9IUGGVw_hEfgMPgpmqTGr-rBpa-vx3v4kXBjPMrO-Ki83ZHpPDckjqwah5eqXOfrot0hiQhT31AM02JAuMC0kmwDRpw-oPU6hryCpcMbECk1c8irkslTQGFizZ9Y/s200/Tulle+Scrubber+small+frong.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKLl6pGOpNm76Oz1KMdnTj98tmT6p2uc9zoHsMi4ByHXwTUaP1vYd_Qvt_ipAFhLIk4h-92j8cWs-faUx6d-3RXBOUv-zRDi6sFkW4Kg_jeySp34ohnLz4dvgaH5n7Zo4CvMpZYNpPGFo/s1600/tulle+scrubber+small+back.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 150px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582919543541129858" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKLl6pGOpNm76Oz1KMdnTj98tmT6p2uc9zoHsMi4ByHXwTUaP1vYd_Qvt_ipAFhLIk4h-92j8cWs-faUx6d-3RXBOUv-zRDi6sFkW4Kg_jeySp34ohnLz4dvgaH5n7Zo4CvMpZYNpPGFo/s200/tulle+scrubber+small+back.JPG" /></a><br /><br /></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">1. Make a slip knot and ch 4 (counts as first dc).<br />2. 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, join to first dc in the back loop (12 sts).<br />3. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in same st as ch 3. Then 2 dc in each st around, join to first dc. (24 sts)<br />4. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), in BLO work dc’s evenly around, join to first dc. This will create the sides of the scrubber. (24 sts)<br />5. From this point on, work in a spiral without joining at the end of each round. Ch 2, in BLO *sc in each of the next 4 dc, dec over the next 2 dc. Repeat from * around. (20 sts)<br />6. In BLO, *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec over the next 2 sc. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)<br />7. Skipping sts to keep the work flat, dec around in BLO until you reach the center.<br />8. Fasten off and weave in ends. I just use a crochet hook to pull all of the ends to the inside.<br /><br />Large Scrubber (approximately 5 inch diameter)-<br />Front Back<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtsfFhwWfCpbzXMiyLAKQbCVA04IP7zLLfbB3JzgmGXdol72gWiTNUv5WupfCYuhjyvhmi8u6XQK7IDNVNlB5wWODfuJsA7rrCADXkNwhB5pGNxDsOA6n8AhYZK97xiVCz-yFjMV1cdOE/s1600/tulle+scrubber+big+front.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 152px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582919544781510514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtsfFhwWfCpbzXMiyLAKQbCVA04IP7zLLfbB3JzgmGXdol72gWiTNUv5WupfCYuhjyvhmi8u6XQK7IDNVNlB5wWODfuJsA7rrCADXkNwhB5pGNxDsOA6n8AhYZK97xiVCz-yFjMV1cdOE/s200/tulle+scrubber+big+front.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKog4Hi7xtolklLgnVwIilAUrXaTNZkvTtVujJyg04z8bQbGdvCRWjDTguB0vchlufAgOis6kKK00wfMz-9hWeiOEqI-t966rtC3f4W5BKTEVDNwFKhUy5safkig4JxOqClW2Y7IHObpA/s1600/tulle+scrubber+big+back.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 179px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 147px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582919557795912706" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKog4Hi7xtolklLgnVwIilAUrXaTNZkvTtVujJyg04z8bQbGdvCRWjDTguB0vchlufAgOis6kKK00wfMz-9hWeiOEqI-t966rtC3f4W5BKTEVDNwFKhUy5safkig4JxOqClW2Y7IHObpA/s200/tulle+scrubber+big+back.JPG" /></a><br /><br /></div><div align="left"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKog4Hi7xtolklLgnVwIilAUrXaTNZkvTtVujJyg04z8bQbGdvCRWjDTguB0vchlufAgOis6kKK00wfMz-9hWeiOEqI-t966rtC3f4W5BKTEVDNwFKhUy5safkig4JxOqClW2Y7IHObpA/s1600/tulle+scrubber+big+back.JPG"></a></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">1. Make a slip knot and ch 4 (counts as first dc).<br />2. 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, join to first dc in the back loop (12 sts).<br />3. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in same st as ch 3. Then 2 dc in each st around, join to first dc. (24 sts)<br />4. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in same st as ch 3. Dc in next st. *2 dc in next st, dc in next st. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)<br />5. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), in BLO work dc’s evenly around, join to first dc. This will create the sides of the scrubber. (36 sts)<br />6. From this point on, work in a spiral without joining at the end of each round. Ch 2, in BLO *sc in each of the next 4 dc, dec over the next 2 dc. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)<br />7. In BLO, *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec over the next 2 sc. Repeat from * around.<br />8. Skipping sts to keep the work flat, dec around in BLO until you reach the center.<br />9. Fasten off and weave in ends.<br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2011 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </div></div></div></div>Nadinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11767954670675353198noreply@blogger.com34tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-22249073547066322292011-03-11T08:00:00.000-08:002011-03-11T12:46:20.149-08:00Hamthrax- crochetHamthrax<br />Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEv7uOS2HwjNnd6xXOFtJDbvBLuJH4cKzSeb7V5QKhyphenhyphenov-PUzOh7-okOZ8q_WD9I9t4RlvK37FKbPfNpPvpPn6JEz7XIeqeCxVOcaFC__ThkunQ4bLDY14JvaE56RjHdA_oq8ubzAUgPc/s1600/Hamthrax.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 182px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582924764844309010" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEv7uOS2HwjNnd6xXOFtJDbvBLuJH4cKzSeb7V5QKhyphenhyphenov-PUzOh7-okOZ8q_WD9I9t4RlvK37FKbPfNpPvpPn6JEz7XIeqeCxVOcaFC__ThkunQ4bLDY14JvaE56RjHdA_oq8ubzAUgPc/s200/Hamthrax.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dls/nadine-borovicka-designs/60553?filename=Hamthrax-_Crochet.pdf">download now</a><br /><br />A crocheted model of the H1N1 virus with a bit of a twist. It is not only covered with beads representing the two proteins covering the surface of the virus, but it also has a snout. Send your loved ones the gift of swine flu.<br /><br />Materials:<br />Worsted weight yarn- pink in color<br />Size F crochet hook<br />2 colors of beads-<br />Sewing needle and thread that blends into yarn<br />Stuffing<br />Yarn needle<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />MC- magic circle<br />SC- single crochet<br />Inc- increase<br />Dec- decrease<br />BPSC- back post single crochet<br />Ch- chain<br />Sl st- slip stitch<br /><br />Directions:<br />-Body, working in a spiral<br />1. MC, 6 sc in circle (6)<br />2. Inc around (12)<br />3. [sc, inc] around (18)<br />4. [sc, sc, inc] around (24)<br />5. [sc, sc, sc, inc] around (30)<br />6. [sc, sc, sc, sc, inc] around (36)<br />7 -12. Sc around (36)<br />13.[sc, sc, sc, sc, dec] around (30)<br />14.[sc, sc, sc, dec] around (24)<br />15.[sc, sc, dec] around (18)<br />16.[sc, dec] around (12), stuff firmly<br />17.Dec around (6)<br />Fasten off<br /><br />-Snout<br />1. MC, 6 sc in circle (6)<br />2. Inc around, sl st to join to 1st sc of round (12)<br />3. Ch 1, BPSC around (12) this creates the ridge of the snout.<br />4. Sc around, sl st to join to 1st sc of round (12), fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.<br /><br />Sew snout onto body. I used it to cover up the hole in the body where I fastened off. Sew beads all over body in a random pattern. Feel free to get creative with placement and colors at this point. I used a fabric marker to make nostrils on the snout. You could also add eyes if you wanted to.<br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2011 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-76031264886921112122010-10-22T09:01:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:20:36.413-07:00LicensingSo I've made a few changes on my patterns. I've changed my Copyright/Licensing statement<br /><br /><strong>From:</strong> This pattern, chart, and photos are property of Nadine Borovicka. All rights reserved. Pattern is available for personal use only. Pattern may not be sold or used to produce items for sale without express written permission from the designer. (c) Copyright 2010 (or whatever year it was written) by Nadine Borovicka.<br /><br /><strong>To:</strong> Copyright (c) Nadine Borovicka 2010 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.<br /><br />What does this mean?!?! (sorry couldn't resist the <a href="http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCUQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DOQSNhk5ICTI&ei=IL7BTJv8MYaglAekismNCg&usg=AFQjCNFlGR1fmg2UVI9P4EWGXlKyB6JcwQ">double rainbow </a>reference). Essentially I don't want to put any restrictions on what you do with my patterns and legally, I really can't. So I am removing that restriction, that at the time I started designing patterns seemed standard. Personally the restriction on what you do with the finished object only makes sense if the person who designed the pattern is also selling the item. Ex. If I design a sweater and also sell them for $50, when someone buys my pattern for $5 and then sells those sweaters I am losing out on $45 in revenue. But if I sell the pattern for $5 but don't sell the items, I'm not losing money if someone else sells the item. The person buying the item probably isn't capable or willing to make the sweater so if they would never have bought my pattern, I'm not losing out on the sale. There is my logic.<br /><br />I am only asking two things of those of you who make things from my patterns (who I love because I feel like a real designer every time someone uses a pattern I've written). First, if you do make my project for yourself, for sale, for charity, whatever a little recognition would be very welcome. A link to my blog from yours or a nod to the designer when they ask you where you got it. Second, if you do sell a bunch of items made from my patterns and become rich, take a look through my Etsy store. I would really appreciate it. :)<br /><br />This blog post will take precedence over what is currently on the patterns here and on Ravelry. It is going to take a while to get them all changed. Oh and this change only affects the finished items you make. Please don't copy or distribute my patterns. If you have a group that wants to make my items, please send them all to the blog or Ravelry to print it out. Traffic means publicity means possible Etsy sales.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-11022230334315695452010-04-26T13:01:00.002-07:002010-10-22T10:24:09.385-07:00Girly Bits Dishcloth/ Passion Cloth- Knit<div align="center">Girly Bits Dishcloth/Passion Cloth<br />Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/purchase/nadine-borovicka-designs/35248"><img border="0" src="http://www.ravelry.com/images/shopping/buy-now.gif" /></a> </div><p align="center">$1.50 USD<br /></p><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 162px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464543715730695522" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdn8bu2Q2lTQ7m2b_M-RBeh6D_cvc4yfEW10AtTcmu6IO_9CYCbA6GRZ_dZEhMyS2i_JCjFDnvCQ4hE8HxKVfG999E5wgWE8S4SYxqJgtPwvtyL6g3CZgp_sOBzGViQTSo7KSq0k3v5nc/s200/DSCN0326.JPG" /><br />A dishcloth to clean up after life’s little messes<br /><br />Materials:<br />Size 7 knitting needles<br />Worsted weight cotton yarn<br />Yarn Needle<br /><br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2010 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-73209064458125020582010-04-26T13:01:00.001-07:002010-10-22T10:24:00.591-07:00Big Dick Dishcloth/Passion Cloth- Knit<div align="center">Big Dick Dishcloth/Passion Cloth<br />Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/purchase/nadine-borovicka-designs/35247"><img border="0" src="http://www.ravelry.com/images/shopping/buy-now.gif" /></a></div><div align="center">$1.50 USD</div><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiKx6ny8gup7DcBWXSlUYEb44Mn_0dDvc7aAbZARZEfyX5y3y-Zbe0JOwMfymwZfp1aGvgsubEd3rL6SwrDKjLYVvGmDtWzTm4XUWS1T8nhLwP2vx1DivPlbwF9_7EF338ak88bcJCIZs/s1600/DSCN0310.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 178px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464543830041070866" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiKx6ny8gup7DcBWXSlUYEb44Mn_0dDvc7aAbZARZEfyX5y3y-Zbe0JOwMfymwZfp1aGvgsubEd3rL6SwrDKjLYVvGmDtWzTm4XUWS1T8nhLwP2vx1DivPlbwF9_7EF338ak88bcJCIZs/s200/DSCN0310.JPG" /></a><br />A dishcloth to clean up after life’s little messes<br /><br />Materials:<br />Size 7 knitting needles<br />Worsted weight cotton yarn<br />Yarn Needle<br /><br /></p><p><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2010 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-47508428741112378882010-04-23T12:48:00.000-07:002012-02-23T08:29:30.649-08:00Knitty Bitty Sock- Knit<div align="center">
Knitty Bitty Sock<br />
Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br />
http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com<br />
<a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a></div>
<div align="center">
<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dls/nadine-borovicka-designs/35191?filename=Knitty_Bitty_Sock-_Knit.pdf">Download PDF Here</a></div>
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5464539278362988898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgSKlkWgwD8wQdU8AF-cpgJlT7SqjXXxAV8q2d7wkTFlUHAZli3NfpSCROVYn6heTv_BsDYzYRydai4TZ2w_RPSpGiF3FFHcSlwJxf77UR1ktJRbGD_3Gh0EE3wfVE2IEuXOaJKe0p5kk/s200/IMG_8001.jpg" style="display: block; height: 174px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 200px;" /><br />
A tiny little sock that makes a great addition to a key chain or as a charm on your cell phone. It is also a great way to use up little bits of sock yarn if you aren’t crazy enough to make a blanket out of your sock yarn scraps (I say that out of love, I am making one of those blankets myself). I also sell these in my Etsy store, <a href="http://www.knittingnadine.etsy.com/">Nadine's Nook</a>.<br />
<br />
Materials:<br />
Two Size 1 DPN’s- important since you will be working I-cord<br />
A small scrap of sock yarn<br />
Scissors<br />
Tapestry needle<br />
<br />
Abbreviations:<br />
CO- Cast on<br />
St(s)- Stitch(es)<br />
K- Knit<br />
P- Purl<br />
K2tog- Knit two together<br />
<br />
Directions:<br />
• CO 6 Sts<br />
• K one row<br />
• Begin working in I-cord for about ½ an inch or however long you want the cuff to be<br />
• Still in I-cord: K 5, Turn<br />
• Now working back and forth: P 4, turn<br />
• K 3, turn<br />
• P 2, turn<br />
• K 3, turn<br />
• P 4, turn<br />
• K 5<br />
• Back to working in I-cord: K 6<br />
• K three more rows<br />
• K2Tog, K 2, K2Tog<br />
• Bind off by gathering the last 4 stitches on a tapestry needle and pulling tight. Use this length of yarn to also close the small holes that will form on the sides of the heel where you worked the short rows. Weave in ends.<br />
<br />
You can either use the ends to tie the sock on to your display of choice (instead of weaving them in) or you can run a split ring through some of the stitches at the top. I like using the Cell Phone fobs to attach them to things.<br />
<br />
Above, when I say working in I-cord, I mean to continue bringing the yarn around the back of the stitches instead of turning your work and working on the wrong side.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2010 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-46816127218261136882009-10-15T07:09:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:23:34.075-07:00Fleecy Felted Slippers - Loom Knit<div align="center">Fleecy Felted Slippers<br />Loom Knit Pattern byNadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dls/nadine-borovicka-designs/23767?filename=Fleecy_Felt_Slippers-_loom_knit.pdf">Download PDF Here</a></div><div align="center"></div><div align="center">Originally published in Loom Knitter's Circle Magazine Spring 2009 issue available for <a href="http://www.loomknitterscircle.com/archives.html">download here</a>.</div><div align="center"><br />During the summer, I like my projects to be small, easy and portable. Who wants to be draping an afghan or sweater across their laps while it is hot out? Not to mention how hard it is to drag those projects to the beach, park or baseball games. But even when the weather warms up, my feet are the first things to get cold. These slippers are small, easy and portable and will keep my feet warm. Plus they have adorable sheep needle felted onto the toes.<br /></div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 178px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392916506463377682" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeaIMSUvL2AypgAYSYOJwKcBKjwAtL_sEJPtp4hZr_CSqKV2aPhVh_jFP0XU6vBKuT836Dg1BltVTopyTSjzX_b1DjHg3wPXOBp3rnaDpgV0KeAEnxrmBAW-4qSgH8N7FKeNdJfKAEj2I/s200/Finished_slippers.jpg" /><br />Materials<br />Knitting Loom: Large Gauge Loom with at least 31 pegs. Red Knifty Knitter knitting loom was used in sample.<br />Yarn: 446 yards of worsted weight wool yarn held double. 2 skeins of Patons Classic Wool in Leaf Green were used in sample.<br />Notions: Tapestry Needle, Knitting Tool, Felting Needle, Black Felt, White Roving/Wool, Foam Pad<br /><br />Gauge Before Felting: 10 stitches and 15 rows for a 4 x 4 inch swatch<br />Length pre felting toe to heel: 14 inches<br />Length pre-felting heel to top of cuff: 5 inches<br />Pre-felting foot width: 6 inches<br /><br />Gauge After Felting: Length post-felting toe to heel: 11 inches<br />Length post-felting heel to cuff: 3 inches<br />Post-felting foot width: 5 inches<br /><br />Abbreviations: CO- Cast on<br /><br />Pattern Notes: My felting ratio was 1.27 inches unfelted to 1 inch felted. So to figure out how long you need to knit your slipper, multiply the length of your foot (toe to heel) by 1.27 and that will give you the unfelted length you need to knit. Keep in mind that your toe and heel will each make up 2.5 inches of knitting so be sure to begin your heel when you have 2.5 inches left to go.<br />Ex. My foot is 9 inches long. 9 * 1.27 = 11.43 ~ 11.5. So I would begin my heel once I have knit 9 inches from the point of the toe. 11.5 – 2.5 = 9 This number corresponds to ‘X’ in the pattern <img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 131px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392915895862850226" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfokhvrIZY6TCKbiku5HTTFk3d3pLP6KraeccDF0acdAKsZtkNmsyCCz87UPdns1aRVrEw5auKSo-WoTdYeN1zzvEiQA8LV1FgEfpMACHz61K59SBBWU0WziPdppFcajVuza5dSHSFNRo/s200/1.GIF" /><br />Measure your foot in three places, around the ball of your foot (A), perpendicular to the sole at the start of your ankle (B) and around your ankle (C) according to diagram 1. If any of these measurements are larger than 10 inches, you will need to go up a loom size. The directions will be very similar except you will use a different chart for the toe and heel and will need to use different peg numbers when working on the cuff.<br /><br />Wrap instructions- Remove the loop that is on the peg being careful not to drop it. Wrap the working yarn around that peg from front to back. Replace the loop you removed. Continue working in pattern.<br /><br />Instructions: <img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 191px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392915902763633282" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipk7THzZ6Iz2zAqIe2rciLgWHG98ZzXlg1HnNx-kLqy5B09KgXu26XuyZyXtqMR7_70Gc9HFDGDJ0MRR1TYuttx2QekDuUmqTByGyN8gX1G6oyZAR4IpKQEFkRF-GMFwAMHeMDLRGS-Jc/s200/2.GIF" /><br />Place markers on Pegs 1 and 16 according to diagram 2. Starting with peg 16, co 16 stitches using e-wrap cast on. Work pegs 1-16 according to these instructions for the toe:<br />1. e-wrap pegs 1-15, wrap peg 16<br />2. e-wrap pegs 15-2, wrap peg 1<br />3. e-wrap pegs 2-14, wrap peg 15<br />4. e-wrap pegs 14-3, wrap peg 2<br />5. e-wrap pegs 3-13, wrap peg 14<br />6. e-wrap pegs 13-4, wrap peg 3<br />7. e-wrap pegs 4-12, wrap peg 13<br />8. e-wrap pegs 12-5, wrap peg 4<br />9. e-wrap pegs 5-11, wrap peg 12<br />10. e-wrap pegs 11-6, wrap peg 5<br />11. e-wrap pegs 6-12, on the pegs that have been wrapped, knit 2 over 1<br />12. e-wrap pegs 12-5<br />13. e-wrap pegs 5-13<br />14. e-wrap pegs 13-4<br />15. e-wrap pegs 4-14<br />16. e-wrap pegs 14-3<br />17. e-wrap pegs 3-15<br />18. e-wrap pegs 15-2<br />19. e-wrap pegs 2-16<br />20. e-wrap pegs 16-1<br /><br />You will now have 16 stitches on pegs, with the cast on edge loose. Reach into the loom and place the cast on edge evenly on the empty pegs on the loom.<br /><br />Begin to e-wrap around, counter-clockwise, until your work measures X inches from the point of the toe, ending on peg 1. Now repeat rows 1-20 of the toe. This makes your heel.<br /><br />E-wrap counter-clockwise to peg 23. Turn and work back to peg 24. Work back and forth between these two pegs until the cuff is the length you want. Remember to multiply the felted length you want by 1.27 to get the length you actually need to knit.<br /><br />Use the double crochet bind off or your preferred stretchy bind off method.<br /><br />Larger Loom Pattern:<br />This will make an 11.5-12 inch diameter slipper<br />Place markers on Pegs 1 and 18. Starting with peg 18, co 18 stitches with e-wrap cast on. Work pegs 1-18 according to these instructions for the toe:<br />1. e-wrap pegs 1-17, wrap peg 18<br />2. e-wrap pegs 17-2, wrap peg 1<br />3. e-wrap pegs 2-16, wrap peg 17<br />4. e-wrap pegs 16-3, wrap peg 2<br />5. e-wrap pegs 3-15, wrap peg 16<br />6. e-wrap pegs 15-4, wrap peg 3<br />7. e-wrap pegs 4-14, wrap peg 15<br />8. e-wrap pegs 14-5, wrap peg 4<br />9. e-wrap pegs 5-13, wrap peg 14<br />10. e-wrap pegs 13-6, wrap peg 5<br />11. e-wrap pegs 6-12, wrap peg 13<br />12. e-wrap pegs 12-7, wrap peg 6<br />13. e-wrap pegs 7-13, on the pegs that have been wrapped, knit 2 over 1<br />14. e-wrap pegs 13-6<br />15. e-wrap pegs 6-14<br />16. e-wrap pegs 14-5<br />17. e-wrap pegs 5-15<br />18. e-wrap pegs 15-4<br />19. e-wrap pegs 4-16<br />20. e-wrap pegs 16-3<br />21. e-wrap pegs 3-17<br />22. e-wrap pegs 17-2<br />23. e-wrap pegs 2-18<br />24. e-wrap pegs 18-1<br /><br />You will now have 18 stitches on pegs, with the cast on edge loose. Reach into the loom and place the cast on edge evenly on the empty pegs on the loom.<br /><br />Begin to e-wrap around, counter-clockwise, until your work measures X inches from the point of the toe, ending on peg 1. Now repeat rows 1-24 of the toe. This makes your heel.<br /><br />E-wrap counter-clockwise to peg 27 Turn and work back to peg 28 Work back and forth between these two pegs until the cuff is the length you want. Remember to multiply the felted length you want by 1.27 to get the length you actually need to knit.<br /><br />Use the double crochet bind off or your preferred stretchy bind off method.<br /><br />To felt the slippers:<br /><a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter03/FEATfelthis.html">http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter03/FEATfelthis.html</a> You will probably want to base your felting on measurements instead of feel of fabric. Make sure your slipper does not become shorter than the length of your foot. Also measure around the widest part of your foot (usually the arch) and divide that number in half. Make sure that the width of the slipper does not go below that number. There is some stretch in felting, but not a lot.<br /><br />To needle felt on the slippers:<br />For good basic instructions visit: <a href="http://sewingneedlework.suite101.com/article.cfm/how_to_needle_felt">http://sewingneedlework.suite101.com/article.cfm/how_to_needle_felt</a><br />For more advanced and 3-D techniques visit: <a href="http://www.livingfelt.com/freefeltingpatterns/NeedleFeltingSurfaceDesign.html">http://www.livingfelt.com/freefeltingpatterns/NeedleFeltingSurfaceDesign.html</a><br />To needle felt, you will need black felt and white wool. I use the craft sheets of felt you can get from just about any craft store. First cut out the face, ears and hoof shapes according to diagram 3 (make sure they are small enough to fit onto the slippers). <img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 139px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392915910454224802" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1NMz5uLtmlEP7XaF-QJ3KrMkhB8JaBdqIHoCVDWV5EqwhIBGxROJ8YGTCDXWW688rH0F9M3D_AaNdSd7InMIn-3h06iD1PejT8mb1LLRprzOr2gi1aG7uX2pEjb_Xx2KuKhqfZwS9xvM/s200/3.GIF" /><br />Since we are working with a background that is an odd shape, I like using a foam mat on the inside of the slipper. A two-inch thick piece of furniture padding cut to fit into the toe of the slipper is perfect. Using the basic directions, needle felt the hooves, face and ears on according to the picture.<br /><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 140px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392915917566958050" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDr_yNQLeKELv1F4_j019b7vyX9DNgxahxiPmbDkp8F8_6exmGORFvcZtHpDx6bR5QbCRfuK24iRm3oBCoQKYEgnn-1vBzibSYM_VSmpdoAztcwZ2xEswacQTJB33tgwFE6A8IfW8-8k/s200/4.jpg" /><br />Now with the white wool, make cotton ball size poofs. They don’t need to be dense, just very fluffy and light. Now felt several of these on. <img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 150px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392915920905853538" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNq5J5oI23j0Tj5bWHZ_UGm8YezRG7DM8vk7Eq0nvt3XiEovN4Bqlb5cH37X2uacgoKuSEwKmUM6uV07tXGWre8pnpkqOMQvPY43Alhlztr9yTGxgEjqSweIFnWb4zw9udPQF761tJ6PI/s200/5.jpg" /><br />Leave these pieces more soft and lofty, i.e. you don’t have to needle these as much. Add enough of these to make a fluffy, fleecy sheep. <img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 90px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392916501991910738" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7EvFyQSm3DL0VWygYJ_jpFV0l34jNvpXJM9R3gVyv1pM_2-O2v2eK-jXPJW3whcxo-if2uZw8KWbW1fyCBIILb0sX_j-G0qZoP6I3Bu_ZuL4JGjrkNejz5vYDm5bpd-bYj-ahz_3Dt6A/s200/6.jpg" /><br /><br /><br />To make the slippers non-skid: I am a klutz, I admit it. The way I avoid serious injury to myself when wearing slippers on a tile floor is to use fabric paint to add designs to the bottom. You can write messages, draw designs, designate right and left. This blog has an awesome idea if you want more full coverage: <a href="http://www.nicolehindes.com/2007/09/18/making-slippers-non-slip/">http://www.nicolehindes.com/2007/09/18/making-slippers-non-slip/</a><br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2009 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-133498526516157222009-10-15T05:08:00.000-07:002012-02-23T08:28:43.702-08:00round and round toe up socks- Crochet<div align="center">
Round and Round Toe-Up Socks<br />
Crochet Pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br />
<a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dls/nadine-borovicka-designs/23769?filename=Round_and_Round_toe-up_socks-_crochet.pdf">Download PDF Here</a></div>
<div align="center">
Also available in the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Crochet-Pattern-Day-Day-Calendar/dp/0740783777%3FSubscriptionId%3D1YZR91QYB6WCG3PM78G2%26tag%3Dravelry-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3D0740783777">Crochet Pattern-A-Day: 2010 Day to Day Calendar</a></div>
<div align="center">
<br />
A comfy pair of crocheted socks done in the round, all in one piece, for no seaming needed.<br />
2/28/10- Edited to add a little bit more clarification in the Short Row Increase instructions.</div>
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392918428653486690" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhByO6WJNrG_0pJNX6xHz9QCKuR3nRzesGFENNxTCADFOZd6qPBg7WfMJzt269jsYD_3qNBupnIYD7_DIP0iZ2lby4iA4rZXjVfsLJ0GYdKJEVDaOwoVqT8vcwB_7WWhyphenhyphengVHlT5sQz4Qd4/s200/100_1322.jpg" style="display: block; height: 200px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 150px;" /><br />
Materials:<br />
Crochet Hook, Size E<br />
Lion Brand Magic Stripes (discontinued). 330 yards of a fingering weight yarn/sock yarn such as Red Heart, Heart and Sole.<br />
<br />
Gauge:<br />
5 sts and 8 rows per inch in single crochet<br />
Finished Dimensions: fits a size 9 foot.<br />
<br />
Abbreviations:<br />
Sc- single crochet<br />
Dc- double crochet<br />
Yo- yarn over<br />
Sri- short row increase, see special stitches for instructions<br />
Flo- front loop only<br />
Ch- chain<br />
St(s)- stitch(es)<br />
Inc- increase<br />
Dec- decrease<br />
Fpdc- front post double crochet<br />
Bpdc- back post double crochet<br />
Sl st- slip stitch<br />
Special Stitches:<br />
Crunch Stitch- sc, dc, sc, dc …to end of row. On next row, you will work sc in the dc and dc in the sc.<br />
Short Row Increase (SRI): insert the hook through the end of the previous sc row, YO, pull through, insert hook through end of the SC row before that, YO, pull through, YO and pull through all loops on hook (3 loops) You have your current row and one insert hook goes through the row before your current row and the next insert hook goes into the row before that row. So you will be pulling up loops in 2 different rows.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">SRI clarification: </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">As
you work the heel, you will have two sets of rows; the decrease rows (the first
set you work) and the SRI rows (increasing back out). After you work the first
two SRI rows (where the loops you pick up will be in rows right next to each
other) the first loop you pick up will be in the end of the last SRI row you
worked and then the next loop will be in the last decrease row you worked (that
doesn’t already have an SRI stitch done in it). So you will pick up one loop
close and one loop across the gap, which will close up the side of your heel.</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Trebuchet MS","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Watch the video on how to do the SRI
<a href="http://youtu.be/JLd-N2_bpMU" target="_blank">here</a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
Pattern:<br />
Starting with the toe:<br />
Ch 11.<br />
Row 1: Sc in flo of 2nd chain from hook. Sc in flo of remaining 9 chain sts. Turn and work 10 sc across in flo of base chain stitches. Each base chain st will now have two sc in it for a total of 20 sts. Do not join row, and continue to work in a spiral.<br />
Row 2: Inc, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, inc, inc, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, inc. (24 sts)<br />
Row 3: Sc in each sc around.<br />
Row 4: Inc, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, inc, inc, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, inc. (28 sts)<br />
Row 5: Sc in each sc around.<br />
Row 6: Inc, 1 sc in each of the next 12 sts, inc, inc, 1 sc in each of the next 12 sts, inc. (32 sts)<br />
Row 7: Sc in each sc around.<br />
Row 8: Inc, 1 sc in each of the next 14 sts, inc, inc, 1 sc in each of the next 14 sts, inc. (36 sts)<br />
Row 9: Sc in each sc around.<br />
Row 10: Inc, 1 sc in each of the next 16 sts, inc, inc, 1 sc in each of the next 16 sts, inc. (40 sts)<br />
Row 11: Sc in each sc around.<br />
Row 12: Inc, 1 sc in each of the next 18 sts, inc, inc, 1 sc in each of the next 18 sts, inc. (44 sts)<br />
Row 13: Sc in each sc around.<br />
Row 14: Inc, 1 sc in each of the next 20 sts, inc, inc, 1 sc in each of the next 20 sts, inc. (48 sts)<br />
Row 15: Inc, Sc in each sc around. (49 sts) You must have an odd number of stitches to work the crunch stitch.<br />
<br />
Now begin to work rows in the round in the crunch stitch. Because it is a toe up pattern, you can try on the sock to make it the length you need it to be. Stop working on the foot when it reaches the point where your ankle begins.<br />
<br />
Lay the sock flat and determine and mark the halfway point on each side of the sock. Make sure when you stop working on the foot, you end at one of these points. You will be working 24 stitches back and forth flat and this will make the heel. The other half will have 25 that you will pick back up after completing the heel to make the leg of the sock.<br />
Begin working the heel:<br />
*Ch 1, turn, sc, dec, sc to last 3 sc, dec, sc.<br />
Ch 1, turn, work sc across.<br />
Repeat these two rows from * until you have 10 stitches left. (7 times)<br />
<br />
Ch 1, turn, work to the end of row in sc, at the end of the row, do a short row increase (SRI).<br />
Ch1, turn, sc across (11 sts), SRI.<br />
Repeat [Ch1, turn, sc across, SRI] until you have 24 stitches again.<br />
<br />
Do NOT turn. Work in Crunch stitch around foot and heel stitches (49 sts). Begin working around in crunch stitch again until cuff is as long as you want before ribbing. (Sample sock has 6 rows before beginning ribbing)<br />
<br />
To begin ribbing, dec 1 stitch. Ribbing must be worked over an even number of stitches. Work in dc around (48 sts).<br />
*FPDC in first dc, BPDC in next dc. Continue from * around the sock alternating Front and Back Post Double Crochets. For the next and subsequent rows make sure you work all your fpdc’s in a previous fpdc and the bpdc’s in previous bpdc's. Make the ribbing as long as you want. When you are finished, work a sc, then a sl st, then bind off. Weave in your ends and repeat these directions to make a second sock.<br />
<br />
Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2009 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-32787295508609896042009-01-28T07:29:00.000-08:002010-10-22T10:22:50.118-07:00Ribbed Dish Sponge- Crochet<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1467.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 183px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 136px" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1467.jpg" border="0" /></a> <div>Ribbed Dish Sponge<br />Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br /><br /></div><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/16306?filename=Ribbed_Dish_Sponge-_Crochet.pdf">Download PDF Here</a> <div></div><br /><br /><br />Materials:<br /><div>Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn<br />Size H crochet hook<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />Ch- Chain<br />Sc- Single Crochet<br />Dc- Double Crochet<br />Fpdc- Front Post Double Crochet<br />Bpdc- Back Post Double Crochet<br /><br />Directions:<br />Chain 33<br />Turn and dc in third ch from hook (counts as first dc). Dc across (32 sts)<br />[Chain 2 (counts as first dc), turn, skip first dc space, Fpdc, *bpdc, fpdc repeat from * across.] 7 times<br />Fold cloth in half widthwise.<br />Ch 1, sc the two halves together evenly around all 4 sides working two or more sc in each corner to keep flat. Join to first sc with a slip stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.<br /><br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2009 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-18384125696714244212009-01-28T00:25:00.000-08:002010-10-22T10:22:35.870-07:00Basketweave Dish Sponge- CrochetBasketweave Dish Sponge<br /><div>Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br /></div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1468.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 177px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1468.jpg" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1466.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 179px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 133px" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1466.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div></div><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/16307?filename=Basketweave_Dish_Sponge-_crochet.pdf">Download PDF Here</a><br /><br />Materials:<br />Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn<br />Size H crochet hook<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />Ch- Chain<br />Sc- Single Crochet<br />Dc- Double Crochet<br />Fpdc- Front Post Double Crochet<br />St(s)- Stitch(es)<br /><br />Directions:<br />Chain 33<br />Turn and dc in third ch from hook (counts as first dc). Dc across ( 32 sts)<br />[Chain 2 (counts as first dc), turn, skip first dc space, Fpdc, *dc, fpdc repeat from * across.] 7 times<br />Fold cloth in half widthwise.<br />Ch 1, sc the two halves together evenly around all 4 sides working two or more sc in each corner to keep flat. Join to first sc with a slip stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.<br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2009 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-50088973764307330492009-01-27T07:28:00.000-08:002010-10-22T10:22:21.442-07:00Felted Flower Coasters- Crochet<div align="left">Felted Flower Coasters<br />Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com</a><br />A great gift to make in a hurry<br /></div><br /><div align="left"><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/16126?filename=Felted_Flower_Coasters-_crochet.pdf">Download PDF Here</a></div><br /><div align="left">Materials:<br />Size K crochet hook<br />Worsted weight wool, Patons classic wool used in sample<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />Ch- Chain<br />Sc- Single crochet<br />Dc- Double crochet<br />St(s)- Stitch(es)<br /><br />Pattern:<br />Ch 3, 11 dc in 3rd ch from hook, join. (12 sts)<br /><br />Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st as joining. 2 dc in each st around. Join (24 sts)<br /><br />Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st as joining. 2 dc in each st around. Join (48 sts)<br /><br />Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as joining. *Skip one st, sc in next st, skip next st, 5 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. In same stitch as joining, 2 dc. Join to ch 3.<br /><br />Fasten off, weave in ends and felt using your preferred method.<br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2009 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-10919845572798535632009-01-27T06:08:00.000-08:002010-10-22T10:22:06.491-07:00My Blueberry Hat - Crochet<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/DSCN0150.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 159px; height: 211px;" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/DSCN0150.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>My Blueberry Hat<br /><div>Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com</a><br />This pattern was inspired by the hat that Norah Jones wears at the end of the movie My Blueberry Nights. Maybe if you make it, you’ll get to kiss Jude Law too. Although it hasn’t happened to me yet.<br /></div><br /><div> </div><br /><div><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/16127?filename=My_Blueberry_Hat-_crochet.pdf">Download PDF Here</a></div><br /><div><br /><br />Materials:<br />Size H Crochet Hook<br />1 skein Patons Classic Merino Wool in Jade Heather- this yarn matches the movie the best that I could tell. But you could substitute any worsted weight yarn you like.<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />Ch- Chain<br />Sc- Single Crochet<br />Dc- Double Crochet<br />Trc- Treble/Triple Crochet<br />St(s)- Stitch(es)<br /><br />Directions:<br />I like to start with a <a href="http://www.crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html">magic adjustable ring</a> to prevent a hole from forming. Make a Magic Ring, ch 3, 11 dc in ring, join and tighten (12 sts).<br />Ch 3, dc in joining, 2 dc in each st around, join (24 sts)<br />Ch 3, dc in joining, dc, * 2 dc in next st, dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join (36 sts)<br />Ch 3, dc in joining, dc in next 2 sts. * 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around, join (48 sts)<br />Ch 3, Skip joining st, dc in each st around, join (48 sts)<br />Ch 3, dc in joining, dc in next 3 sts. *2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around, join (60 sts)<br />Ch 3, skip joining st, dc in each st around (60 sts)<br />Ch 3, dc in joining, dc in next 4 sts. *2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around, join (72 sts)<br />[Ch 3, skip joining st, dc in each st around (72 sts)] 6 times. You can do more or less of these rows to lengthen or shorten the hat.<br />C 1, sc in same st as joining. * skip next 2 sts, (trc, 3 dc, trc) in next st, skip next 2 sts#, sc in next st. Repeat from * around ending at #. Join to first sc with a slip stitch.<br />Fasten off and weave in ends<br />Go find Jude Law’s diner and have some blueberry pie<br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2009 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-37107180588163959822008-06-25T18:49:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:21:18.247-07:00DPN or Crochet Hook Needle Case - Needle FeltedDPN or Crochet Hook Case<br />Needle Felting pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://Nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br />An easy project using the sheets of felt you can purchase from just about any craft store and even Wal-mart. I get to cheat now using my needle felting machine, but the first few I did were done by hand.<br /><br />Materials:<br />At least 2 sheets of 8 ½ X 11 inch felt – you can use more sheets or some roving to add decoration to the front<br />Felting needles – either singles, puncher or machine<br />Scissors<br />A base to needle felt on if doing it by hand – foam or one of the brush bases you can buy<br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1188.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1188.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />This step is optional. Take the sheet that will essentially be the cover. You can leave it plain or do as I have and add fun designs to it. Make cases that match your knitting or crocheting bags or get creative.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/felted%20needle%20case/100_1152.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/felted%20needle%20case/100_1152.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/felted%20needle%20case/100_1150.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/felted%20needle%20case/100_1150.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Take the second sheet of felt and cut it in half long ways. Then trim the side edges so that you have about ¼ of an inch of the cover sheet overhanging the pocket to make the seam. Place the pocket so that there is also a ¼ of an inch overhang at the bottom.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/felted%20needle%20case/100_1151.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/felted%20needle%20case/100_1151.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Fold over this edge. This is the tricky part. In order not to mess up the design on the cover, you will actually need to turn this over and work from the other side. So you will turn it with the decorated side up and the pocket underneath (the opposite of what I am doing in the picture). Fold over the seam and use your needle to felt the edges to create a strong seam. If you don’t feel comfortable with this, you can sew the edge. You will have a ¼ inch seam on the entirety of both side edges and the bottom. On the top, you can fold over ½ to 1 inch of the top and lightly felt to create a flap to keep the needles from escaping out the top. Just make sure you don’t fold down too much so that your needles don’t fit.<br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1185.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1185.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Again working with the cover side up you will make the pockets for the needles. Felt lines running up the pocket as in the picture above. If you work from the pocket side, you will push through fibers that will ruin the design on the front so you have to be sure that you are working so the fibers only show on the pocket side.<br /><br />You can sew or felt on buttons or ties to close. I just roll mine up and tie it with a piece of yarn or ribbon.<br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2008 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-30991702885785461852008-06-25T18:48:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:21:02.357-07:00Checkerboard - CrochetCheckerboard Set<br />Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://Nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br />Perfect to rollup and stuff into a little crocheted bag for checkers on the go.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/6741?filename=Checker_Board-crochet.pdf">Download PDF Here</a><br /><br />Materials:<br />Worsted Weight yarn (I used Red Heart in 3 colors I had laying around)<br />Size G Hook<br />Yarn Needle<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />Color A – player one color<br />Color B – player two color<br />Color C – the border color ( I used a variegated that combined colors A and B)<br />Ch – Chain<br />Sc – Single chain<br /><br />Board (just using colors A and B):<br />With color A, chain 9, SC in 2nd chain from hook and across (8 stitches). (Ch 1, turn, sc across) 6 times.<br />*Change color. (ch 1, turn, sc across) 8 times. Repeat from * 6 times. End with 8 blocks of alternating colors. Four blocks of color A and four of color B, starting with A and ending with B. You can either carry the strands of color up along the side of the strip or you can cut and rejoin. Either way, seaming and adding the border should cover up the extra strands.<br /><br />Make eight of these strips. Seam them together, laying them beside each other and alternating their directions.<br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/checkerboardseaming.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/checkerboardseaming.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Diagram on how to line up and seam together board strips.<br /><br />After board is sewn together, attach border color to the beginning of an edge.<br />* Sc 64 stitches evenly across edge. Sc, Ch 2, Sc in corner. Repeat from * 3 more times. Join to 1st Sc with a slip stitch.<br />(Ch 1, *SC to corner space. Sc, ch 2, sc in corner ch 2 space. Repeat from * to complete round. Join to first Sc with a slip stitch) Repeat 2 more times to complete border. Fasten off.<br /><br />Game Pieces:<br />With color A or B, <a href="http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html">magic ring cast on</a>, 6 sc in circle. Working in the round, 2 sc in each sc around (12 stitches). Change to color C, 2 sc in each sc around (24 stitches). Slip stitch in next sc to join the round. Fasten off.<br />Make 16 pieces with color A and 16 with color B.<br /><br />Play checkers<br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2008 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-51192195729355411692008-06-25T18:47:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:18:47.891-07:00Handspun Hat - Knit<a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1010.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1010.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Handspun Hat<br />Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://Nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br />I had no idea what to make with my first handspun yarn. It was a bulky raspberry and cream 2-ply yarn. I was using Corridale, which was easy to spin but a bit too scratchy to wear next to my skin. I had just enough yardage for a hat.<br />As a note, after rows 1 and 2, the row number I give is no longer accurate. The cast on, decreases and increases can be your choice. They don’t add a particular design element so just use your favorite. </div><div> </div><div><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/6744?filename=Handspun_hat-knit.pdf">Download PDF Here<br /></a><br />Materials:<br />Size 11 Needles<br />Bulky Yarn- I used handspun<br />Pom-pom maker-optional<br /><br />Hat is knit flat them seamed up the back.<br /><br />Cast on 52 stitches loosely. Method of cast on doesn’t really matter as long as it is stretchy enough to be the opening edge of the hat.<br /><br />Row 1. Knit row<br />Row 2. Purl row<br />Repeat rows 1 and 2, 4 more times.<br /><br />3. Knit row, decreasing 4 times evenly across the row (knit 2 together works just fine)<br />4. Purl row<br />Repeat 3 and 4 once more.<br /><br />5. Knit row decreasing 4 times evenly across<br />6. Purl row decreasing 4 times evenly across<br />Repeat 5 and 6, 3 more times<br /><br />Knit 3 together 4 times.<br />Bind off and gather top row of stitches, leaving a yarn tail long enough to sew up the seam.<br /><br />On your starting edge, pick up 50 stitches.<br />1. Knit row<br />2. *Knit 2, increase *repeat across<br />3. *Knit 2, increase *repeat across<br />4. Knit row<br />Repeat row 4, 5 more times<br />Bind off very loosely. Sew up seam of hat. <a href="http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/05/how-to-make-pom-poms.html">Add pom-pom </a>to top of hat if you like.<br /><br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2008 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-52558554523679710222008-06-25T18:41:00.000-07:002014-02-20T05:53:31.709-08:00Cunning Hat - Loom KnitCunning Hat<br />
Loom Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br />
<a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://Nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br />
Inspired by the Jayne Cobb hat on Firefly<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Absaf3LDJbfq-h1OuCv92ah0eS5KlMVyS0LOXz9O7zJU82-zsENtqcsKH91BV4DV0mOMAcJ5dT7KwatbPYSiEAc9wBHWFMJuEMn9rLOemaZcZ7jHcCRQmtyvA1yZMiBmxQzW2BRl758/s1600/Jayne+Hat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Absaf3LDJbfq-h1OuCv92ah0eS5KlMVyS0LOXz9O7zJU82-zsENtqcsKH91BV4DV0mOMAcJ5dT7KwatbPYSiEAc9wBHWFMJuEMn9rLOemaZcZ7jHcCRQmtyvA1yZMiBmxQzW2BRl758/s1600/Jayne+Hat.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/6742?filename=Jayne_Cobb_Hat-loom.pdf">Download PDF Here</a><br />
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Materials:<br />
Yellow Knifty Knitter<br />
Orange Yarn (Lionbrand Jiffy in Rust)<br />
Yellow Yarn (Lionbrand Jiffy in Gold)<br />
Red Yarn (Lionbrand Wool-ease chunky in Redwood)<br />
Loom Knitting Tool<br />
Pom-pom maker<br />
Yarn Needles<br />
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Abbreviations:<br />
Color A = Orange<br />
Color B = Yellow<br />
Color C = Red<br />
K =<a href="http://loomknittinghelp.com/looms/rlr/stitches/stitches/knit.html"> Knit stitch</a><br />
P = <a href="http://loomknittinghelp.com/looms/rlr/stitches/stitches/purl.html">Purl Stitch</a><br />
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<a href="http://loomknittinghelp.com/looms/rlr/caston/ewrap.html">E-wrap Cast on</a> all pegs with color A. [K1, P1] around loom for five(5) rows. <a href="http://loomknittinghelp.com/looms/rlr/stitches/stitches/ktbl.html">E-wrap stitch</a> on one more row of color A. Do NOT knit off and do not cut color A yarn.<br />
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Start ear flaps working with color C. Starting on peg 8, working clockwise, e-wrap cast on 9 pegs. Knit 5 rows of color C back and forth on those 9 pegs. Do NOT touch strands of color A. We will come back to it. Increase the 6th row at both ends (11 pegs) and knit 7 rows. Increase the 13th row at both ends (13 pegs) and knit 7 rows. Increase the 21st row at both ends (15 pegs) and knit 10 rows. You’ll end the earflap with 3 loops on each of those 15 pegs. Two of color A on the bottom and one of color C on top. Cut Color C and make second ear flap starting on peg 33.<br />
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<a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/YellowKKpegplacement.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/YellowKKpegplacement.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
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Diagram of peg placement<br />
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After both earflaps are finished, beginning with peg 1, knit non-ear flap pegs off 1 over 1 (just loops of color A). Knit off earflap pegs 1 over 2 (Pull the bottom loop of color A over both the top color A and color C loops). E-wrap around loom with color A. Non-ear flap pegs, knit off 1 over 1 (just loops of color A). Earflap pegs, knit off 2 over 1 (bottom 2 loops, 1 color A and 1 color C, over top loop of color A).<br />
E-wrap knit normally with color A for 8 rows. Switch to color B, E-wrap knit for 15 rows. Bind off using <a href="http://loomknittinghelp.com/looms/rlr/bindoff/provisional.html">Provisional method</a>. <a href="http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/05/how-to-make-pom-poms.html">Make a pom-pom</a> with all three yarn colors and attach to the top of the hat. Tie off all of your ends but do NOT weave in to maintain that “just made by Ma Cobb” look.<br />
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Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2008 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-46594366980574637522008-06-25T18:35:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:18:14.323-07:00Skully Fingerless Mitts - Knit<a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1227.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_1227.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Skully Fingerless Mitts<br />Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka<br /><a href="http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/">http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/</a><br /><a href="http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/">http://Nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/</a><br />I needed a project for a teenager’s graduation party. I crossed my fingers and hoped that skulls were still in fashion and tried my first attempt at duplicate stitch.<br /></div><div><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/6743?filename=Skully_Fingerless_Mitts-_knit.pdf">Download PDF Here</a></div><div><br />Materials:<br />Size 4 DPNs<br />Caron Simply Soft or similar yarn of your choice in two colors<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />DPN- Double pointed needles<br />MC – Main color<br />AC- Accent/ Duplicate stitch color<br />K – Knit<br />P – Purl<br />M1 – <a href="http://www.stitchdiva.com/custom.aspx?id=106">Make 1 (increase method)</a><br /><br />Cast on 40 stitches. Place marker for the beginning of round (slip this marker every time you come to it).<br />Join in the round and work around in K2, P2 ribbing for 4 inches (or longer if you like)<br />Knit around for 3 rows.<br />Beginning Thumb:<br />M1, K2, M1, place second marker, K around (42 stitches)<br />Knit around<br />Knit around<br />M1, K4, M1, slip second marker, K around (44)<br />Knit around<br />Knit around<br />M1, K6, M1, slip second marker, K around (46)<br />Knit around<br />Knit around<br />M1, K8, M1, slip second marker, K around (48)<br />Knit around<br />Knit around<br />M1, K10, M1, slip second marker, K around (50)<br />Knit around<br />Knit around<br />P2 (K2, P2) 3 times, slip marker, K around<br />- Repeat row 16, four times.<br />Bind off 14 stitches, drop second marker, K around<br />Cast on two stitches using <a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer05/FEATsum05TT.html">Knit On method</a>, continue working in the round by joining to the next stitches, K around.<br />Starting at the marker indicating beginning of round, start K2, P2 ribbing and continue for 6 rows.<br />Bind off in pattern<br /><a href="http://www.purlbee.com/duplicate-stitch/">Duplicate stitch</a> skull onto back of mitts. Make sure to try on the mitts and find the center for the design. Trust me. Just laying the mitt flat and putting it on will give you a way off center design. Also feel free to graph out whatever design you want and put it on the back.<br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/skullgraph.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 269px; CURSOR: hand" height="187" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/skullgraph.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Graph for duplicate stitch.<br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2008 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-50966172903251238102008-05-08T21:46:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:16:39.448-07:00DNA Model - crochet w/ link to knitDNA Model- a crochet pattern based on the knitting pattern by Kimberly Chapman at <a href="http://kimberlychapman.com/crafts/knit-patterns-dna.html">http://kimberlychapman.com/crafts/knit-patterns-dna.html</a> I did have permission of the original designer to design this based on her wonderful work. I am very excited she allowed me to do it, because at the time I couldn't knit, let alone even think of working with DPN's. This is for all those crochetiers out there who are scared to death of DPN's or just prefer to use a hook.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/5343?filename=Crochet_DNA_Model.pdf">Download the PDF here.</a><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0891.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left; width: 200px;" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0891.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Crochet hook, size F<br />Worsted weight yarn (I did mine in two colors, but to be accurate, the strands should be one color and you should have 4 colors for the connectors where the colors are paired up and don’t change. Ex. Blue always with yellow and red with green)<br />Tapestry needle<br />Stuffing<br /><br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />Sc – single crochet<br />Ch – chain<br />Inc – increase<br />Dec – decrease<br /><br /><br />For the main strands tart with the <a href="http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html">magic ring cast on</a>. 9 sc, join. Do not sc in joining ch. Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around (18 sc), join. *ch1, inc, sc 7, dec, sc 8, join. Repeat from * until desired length. Stuff tube firmly as you go along. To end, ch 1, sc around, join. Ch 1, dec around (9 stitches). Finish stuffing and gather end closed. Weave in end. Make two.<br /><br /><br />Make connectors by chaining 12, leaving a long tail at the beginning to use when attaching. Join. Sc in back of ch around. [ch 1, sc around, join.] Repeat [] for 5 more rows. Change color. Repeat [] for 6 rows. Fasten off leaving another long tail for attaching. Stuff firmly and sew onto long, curved tubes.<br /><br /><br />If you want to make a strand with a left hand twist, in the main strand repeat section, reverse the inc and dec so it reads “ch1, dec, sc 7, inc, sc 8, join.”<br /><br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2008 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-11121137515041061292008-05-08T21:40:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:15:46.916-07:00Imaginary Hat - loom knit<a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0771.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left; width: 200px;" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0771.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Imaginary Hat – inspired by <a href="http://www.cartoonnetwork.com/tv_shows/fosters/index.html">Foster’s Home for Imaginary Friends</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/5345?filename=Bloo_hat_pattern-loom_knit.pdf">Download PDF here.</a><br /><br />Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick in Sky Blue<br />White and black worsted weight yarn<br />Green Knifty Knitter<br />Size G crochet hook<br />Tapestry needle<br /><br />Abbreviations:<br />Ch – chain<br />Dc – double crochet<br />Sc – single crochet<br /><br /><a href="http://loomknittinghelp.com/looms/rlr/caston/ewrap.html">E-cast</a> on all pegs of the knifty knitter. <a href="http://loomknittinghelp.com/looms/rlr/stitches/stitches/ktbl.html">E-wrap stitch </a>in round for about 32 rows for adult hat. Bind off with <a href="http://loomknittinghelp.com/looms/rlr/bindoff/provisional.html">Provisional method</a>. Weave in the ends.<br /><br />With white yarn and crochet hook:Using the <a href="http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html">magic ring cast on technique</a>, ch 3. 12 dc in center of circle and join. Ch 2, 2 sc in each stitch around (24 stitches), join. Fasten off leaving a tail to sew with (about 10 inches). Make 2.Using the white circles yarn tail, sew eyes next to each other on the hat using the tapestry needle. Using black yarn and tapestry needle, embroider pupils and a mouth onto the hat. See picture for placement.<br /><br />For those who might want to convert to regular knitting:<br />I dug out the hat and measured the gauge. In stockinette I am getting 2 stitches and 3 rows per inch. The hat comes off the loom as a tube (about 9 inches long) and you just gather the top stitches together. On needles you could add shaping to the top to make the gather less noticeable.<br /></div><div></div><div><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2008 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-24732237736032805372008-05-08T21:37:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:15:30.622-07:00FIL Cable Scarf - knitFIL Cable Scarf- a cabled scarf I designed for my FIL. Unfortunately, I did it in acrylic, so it wouldn't block when it eventually curled itself into a tube. I also did it in a varigated yarn, while lovely, completely hid the pattern. So for all those who are interested in this pattern, keep in mind that I only got about 1.5 feet into the scarf before I frogged it. I'm not sure how it will look done in a solid yarn with some blocking. Maybe someday I'll make it again. But until then, maybe someone else can use it.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/5344?filename=FIL_Cable_Scarf-knit.pdf">Download PDF here.</a><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0928.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left; width: 200px;" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0928.jpg" border="0" /></a> <div><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0931.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left; width: 200px;" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0931.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Size 10 knitting needles<br />Paton's Shetland Chunky Yarn<br />Cable needle<br />Tapestry needle for working in the ends<br /><br />abreviations:<br />k - knit<br />p - purl<br />Cable Front - slip the next two stitches onto a cable needle and hold to the FRONT of the work, knit the next two stitches, then knit the two stitches on the cable needle.<br />Cable Back - slip the next two stitches onto a cable needle and hold to the BACK of the work, knit the next two stitches, then knit the two stitches on the cable needle.<br /><br />Directions:<br />Cast on 24 stitches.<br />Knit 4 rows for garter stitch border before beginning pattern rows<br />row<br />1. (rs) k4, p4, k8, p4, k4<br />2. (ws) k8, p8, k8<br />3. Repeat row 1<br />4. Repeat row 2<br />5. k4, p4, Cable Front, Cable Back, p4, k4 (there is a strip of 8 knits in the middle. The first four are a cable and the second 4 are a cable with the top rows coming in towards each other at the center. So you are cableing twice here. Once with the first 4 stitches and once with the second 4 stitches)<br />6. Repeat row 2<br />7. Repeat row 1<br />8. Repeat row 2<br />9. Repeat row 1<br />10. Repeat row 2<br />11. k4, p4, k2, Cable Front, k2, p4, k4 (out of the strip of 8 knit stitches in the middle you are cableing the center 4 stitches while leaving the 2 on each side alone)<br />12. Repeat row 2<br /><br />Repeat rows 1-12 until scarf is desired length. Knit 4 rows for garter stitch border before binding off. Bind off loosely. Work in loose ends with a tapestry needle.</div><div> </div><div>Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2008 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. <a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0931.jpg"></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-37922755197626109602008-05-08T21:32:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:14:54.423-07:00Handwarmers - crochet<a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0780.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0780.jpg" /></a><br /><div><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0779.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0779.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Crocheted Hand Warmers<br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/5342?filename=Crocheted_Hand_Warmers.pdf">Download PDF here.</a><br /><br /></div><div></div><div>2 colors worsted weight yarn </div><div>Size G crochet hook</div><div>Yarn needle</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Abbreviations:<br />Sc – single crochet<br />Ch – chain<br />Inc – increase<br />Dec – decrease</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><ul><li>Start with main color. Make a slip knot. Chain 33 stitches. Make sure this fits around the largest part of your hand. Add or decrease chains if you need to. You want it snug, but you want to be able to get it over your hand. Join end of chain to first chain stitch.</li><li>*Ch 1, sc around, join. Repeat from * once. Ch 3, dc around, join. Ch 3, dc around, decreasing three times evenly around, join. Ch 3, dc around, join. Ch 3, dc around, do NOT join. Ch 3, turn, dc around, do NOT join. Ch 1, sc around, join. Ch 3, dc around, join. Fasten off. You worked from bottom of the “glove” to the top.</li><li>Join color number two with a slip stitch to the bottom row of the glove. Ch 1, sc around (33 stitches, if you started with 33 stitches. If not, make it whatever number your chain started with), join. *Ch 3, dc around, dec 4 times evenly around, join. Repeat from * once. Fasten off. Bottom section should fit close to your arm. Decrease more or less times as necessary to fit correctly.</li><li>Join color number two to the top row of the glove. *Ch 1, sc around, join. Repeat from * once. Fasten off.</li><li>You can leave plain or embroider a pattern onto your glove using a strand of yarn and a yarn needle.</li></ul><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2007 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. <a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0779.jpg"></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-11934647358615208072008-05-08T21:28:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:13:59.761-07:00Slippers - Loom knit<p><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0744.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/crafts/100_0744.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/5348?filename=slipper_pattern-loom.pdf">Download PDF here.</a><br /><br />Items Needed: </p><p>Blue Knifty Knitter Loom knitting tool </p><p>1-2 balls of Bulky weight yarn - I used Patons Chunky Shetland </p><ol><li>Working with two strands together (two strands of yarn=to one strand for knitting over), e-cast on all 24 pegs. This project starts at the heel. E-wrap/twisted knit/single stitch (they are all the same stitch, different names) for 8 rows.</li><li>Bind off stitches 13 through 24. Take the loop from peg 24 and place it onto peg 1 and knit off. This creates the opening for your foot.</li><li>E-wrap on all 24 pegs again (for the first row, you are just creating loops around the pegs you have bound off; you will work them on the second row). E-wrap stitch for 4 rows.<br />Bind off stitches 13 through 24. Take the loop from peg 24 and place it onto peg 1 and knit off (I know it sounds like I just repeated myself.) This makes the strap.</li><li>E-wrap back and forth, increasing the row at each end. Repeat two more times (6 total rows)</li><li>E-wrap on all 24 pegs again and knit off pegs with two loops. E-wrap stitch for 15 rows or until project reaches desired size.</li><li>Cast off with gathering method. This makes the toe.</li><li>Gather the other end of the project, this makes the heel.</li><li>The openings end up with really loose edges so I do a round or two of single crochet to tighten it up.</li><li>The slippers end up about a size 9 or 10 woman’s. To make smaller, use a smaller gauge loom. To make larger, after binding off the first or second time, E-wrap stitch a couple of rows before casting on all the loops again. Can also add rows at the beginning and end.</li><li>Then make a matching slipper.<br /></li></ol><p><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2007 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author. </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-982942686416807247.post-74748338183548549672008-05-08T21:17:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:14:15.157-07:00Pink Ribbon Pin Pattern- CrochetCrocheted Pink Ribbon Pin<br /><br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dl/nadine-borovicka-designs/5347?filename=Pink_Ribbon_Pin-crochet.pdf">Download PDF Here.</a><br /><br />Need: Worsted weight yarn in any color- you can do this for any awareness ribbon<br />Size G Crochet Hook<br />Scissors<br />Little bit of glue<br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0783.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0783.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Make a slipknot, chain 15 stitches<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0785.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0785.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Insert Crochet hook through the Fifth chain from the beginning of the chain.<br /><br />back view<a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0784.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0784.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0784.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />front view<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0786.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0786.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Yarn over and pull loop through.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0787.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0787.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br />Yarn over again<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0788.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0788.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Pull through loop on hook to make 16th chain. Chain stitch 4 more chains.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0792.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left" border="0" alt="" src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa222/mccrady_nj/pink%20ribbon%20pin/100_0792.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br />Fasten off. Dot each end knot with a little bit of glue (superglue works, but gets hard) to keep knot secure. Attach with a safety pin to anything you want to show awareness.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2007 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0