Tulle Dish Scrubbers- Crochet

Tulle Dish Scrubbers
Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka
http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/
http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/

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A crocheted dish scrubber that is great to use to remove that stuck on stuff. But it is gentle enough to not ruin your dishes. One side is smoother while the other has ridges from working in the back look. Made from a roll of tulle that can be found in your local craft stores wedding aisle, I can get about 4 or 5 smaller or 2 to 3 larger scrubbers from each roll.
Materials:
1, 6 inch roll of tulle- usually about 25 yards long
Size I crochet hook
Scissors

Abbreviations:
SC- single crochet
Dec- decrease
DC- double crochet
Ch- chain
BLO- back loop only
St(s)- stitch(es)

Directions:

Prepare Tulle-
Take the roll of tulle and cut it in half lengthwise. This should give you two strips of tulle approximately 25 yds long and 3 inches wide. These can be tied together and rolled into a ball to work from. Your cut doesn’t have to be super straight. The strips will be bunched up when you work with them, so uneven edges won’t show. And knots in the strips aren’t a problem. The ends of the knot can be moved to the inside of the scrubber to provide a bit of stuffing.

Small Scrubber (approximately 3 inch diameter)-
Front Back

1. Make a slip knot and ch 4 (counts as first dc).
2. 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, join to first dc in the back loop (12 sts).
3. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in same st as ch 3. Then 2 dc in each st around, join to first dc. (24 sts)
4. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), in BLO work dc’s evenly around, join to first dc. This will create the sides of the scrubber. (24 sts)
5. From this point on, work in a spiral without joining at the end of each round. Ch 2, in BLO *sc in each of the next 4 dc, dec over the next 2 dc. Repeat from * around. (20 sts)
6. In BLO, *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec over the next 2 sc. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)
7. Skipping sts to keep the work flat, dec around in BLO until you reach the center.
8. Fasten off and weave in ends. I just use a crochet hook to pull all of the ends to the inside.

Large Scrubber (approximately 5 inch diameter)-
Front Back

1. Make a slip knot and ch 4 (counts as first dc).
2. 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, join to first dc in the back loop (12 sts).
3. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in same st as ch 3. Then 2 dc in each st around, join to first dc. (24 sts)
4. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in same st as ch 3. Dc in next st. *2 dc in next st, dc in next st. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)
5. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), in BLO work dc’s evenly around, join to first dc. This will create the sides of the scrubber. (36 sts)
6. From this point on, work in a spiral without joining at the end of each round. Ch 2, in BLO *sc in each of the next 4 dc, dec over the next 2 dc. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
7. In BLO, *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec over the next 2 sc. Repeat from * around.
8. Skipping sts to keep the work flat, dec around in BLO until you reach the center.
9. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2011 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.

Hamthrax- crochet

Hamthrax
Crochet pattern by Nadine Borovicka
http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/
http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/












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A crocheted model of the H1N1 virus with a bit of a twist. It is not only covered with beads representing the two proteins covering the surface of the virus, but it also has a snout. Send your loved ones the gift of swine flu.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn- pink in color
Size F crochet hook
2 colors of beads-
Sewing needle and thread that blends into yarn
Stuffing
Yarn needle

Abbreviations:
MC- magic circle
SC- single crochet
Inc- increase
Dec- decrease
BPSC- back post single crochet
Ch- chain
Sl st- slip stitch

Directions:
-Body, working in a spiral
1. MC, 6 sc in circle (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. [sc, inc] around (18)
4. [sc, sc, inc] around (24)
5. [sc, sc, sc, inc] around (30)
6. [sc, sc, sc, sc, inc] around (36)
7 -12. Sc around (36)
13.[sc, sc, sc, sc, dec] around (30)
14.[sc, sc, sc, dec] around (24)
15.[sc, sc, dec] around (18)
16.[sc, dec] around (12), stuff firmly
17.Dec around (6)
Fasten off

-Snout
1. MC, 6 sc in circle (6)
2. Inc around, sl st to join to 1st sc of round (12)
3. Ch 1, BPSC around (12) this creates the ridge of the snout.
4. Sc around, sl st to join to 1st sc of round (12), fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew snout onto body. I used it to cover up the hole in the body where I fastened off. Sew beads all over body in a random pattern. Feel free to get creative with placement and colors at this point. I used a fabric marker to make nostrils on the snout. You could also add eyes if you wanted to.

Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2011 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.

Licensing

So I've made a few changes on my patterns. I've changed my Copyright/Licensing statement

From: This pattern, chart, and photos are property of Nadine Borovicka. All rights reserved. Pattern is available for personal use only. Pattern may not be sold or used to produce items for sale without express written permission from the designer. (c) Copyright 2010 (or whatever year it was written) by Nadine Borovicka.

To: Copyright (c) Nadine Borovicka 2010 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.

What does this mean?!?! (sorry couldn't resist the double rainbow reference). Essentially I don't want to put any restrictions on what you do with my patterns and legally, I really can't. So I am removing that restriction, that at the time I started designing patterns seemed standard. Personally the restriction on what you do with the finished object only makes sense if the person who designed the pattern is also selling the item. Ex. If I design a sweater and also sell them for $50, when someone buys my pattern for $5 and then sells those sweaters I am losing out on $45 in revenue. But if I sell the pattern for $5 but don't sell the items, I'm not losing money if someone else sells the item. The person buying the item probably isn't capable or willing to make the sweater so if they would never have bought my pattern, I'm not losing out on the sale. There is my logic.

I am only asking two things of those of you who make things from my patterns (who I love because I feel like a real designer every time someone uses a pattern I've written). First, if you do make my project for yourself, for sale, for charity, whatever a little recognition would be very welcome. A link to my blog from yours or a nod to the designer when they ask you where you got it. Second, if you do sell a bunch of items made from my patterns and become rich, take a look through my Etsy store. I would really appreciate it. :)

This blog post will take precedence over what is currently on the patterns here and on Ravelry. It is going to take a while to get them all changed. Oh and this change only affects the finished items you make. Please don't copy or distribute my patterns. If you have a group that wants to make my items, please send them all to the blog or Ravelry to print it out. Traffic means publicity means possible Etsy sales.

Girly Bits Dishcloth/ Passion Cloth- Knit

Girly Bits Dishcloth/Passion Cloth
Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka
http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/
http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/

$1.50 USD

A dishcloth to clean up after life’s little messes

Materials:
Size 7 knitting needles
Worsted weight cotton yarn
Yarn Needle


Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2010 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.

Big Dick Dishcloth/Passion Cloth- Knit

Big Dick Dishcloth/Passion Cloth
Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka
http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/
http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/

$1.50 USD

A dishcloth to clean up after life’s little messes

Materials:
Size 7 knitting needles
Worsted weight cotton yarn
Yarn Needle

Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2010 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.

Knitty Bitty Sock- Knit

Knitty Bitty Sock
Knit pattern by Nadine Borovicka
http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com
http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/

Download PDF Here

A tiny little sock that makes a great addition to a key chain or as a charm on your cell phone. It is also a great way to use up little bits of sock yarn if you aren’t crazy enough to make a blanket out of your sock yarn scraps (I say that out of love, I am making one of those blankets myself).  I also sell these in my Etsy store, Nadine's Nook.

Materials:
Two Size 1 DPN’s- important since you will be working I-cord
A small scrap of sock yarn
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:
CO- Cast on
St(s)- Stitch(es)
K- Knit
P- Purl
K2tog- Knit two together

Directions:
• CO 6 Sts
• K one row
• Begin working in I-cord for about ½ an inch or however long you want the cuff to be
• Still in I-cord: K 5, Turn
• Now working back and forth: P 4, turn
• K 3, turn
• P 2, turn
• K 3, turn
• P 4, turn
• K 5
• Back to working in I-cord: K 6
• K three more rows
• K2Tog, K 2, K2Tog
• Bind off by gathering the last 4 stitches on a tapestry needle and pulling tight. Use this length of yarn to also close the small holes that will form on the sides of the heel where you worked the short rows. Weave in ends.

You can either use the ends to tie the sock on to your display of choice (instead of weaving them in) or you can run a split ring through some of the stitches at the top. I like using the Cell Phone fobs to attach them to things.

Above, when I say working in I-cord, I mean to continue bringing the yarn around the back of the stitches instead of turning your work and working on the wrong side.



Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2010 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.

Fleecy Felted Slippers - Loom Knit

Fleecy Felted Slippers
Loom Knit Pattern byNadine Borovicka
http://nadinescrafts.blogspot.com/
http://nadinespatterns.blogspot.com/
Download PDF Here

Originally published in Loom Knitter's Circle Magazine Spring 2009 issue available for download here.

During the summer, I like my projects to be small, easy and portable. Who wants to be draping an afghan or sweater across their laps while it is hot out? Not to mention how hard it is to drag those projects to the beach, park or baseball games. But even when the weather warms up, my feet are the first things to get cold. These slippers are small, easy and portable and will keep my feet warm. Plus they have adorable sheep needle felted onto the toes.

Materials
Knitting Loom: Large Gauge Loom with at least 31 pegs. Red Knifty Knitter knitting loom was used in sample.
Yarn: 446 yards of worsted weight wool yarn held double. 2 skeins of Patons Classic Wool in Leaf Green were used in sample.
Notions: Tapestry Needle, Knitting Tool, Felting Needle, Black Felt, White Roving/Wool, Foam Pad

Gauge Before Felting: 10 stitches and 15 rows for a 4 x 4 inch swatch
Length pre felting toe to heel: 14 inches
Length pre-felting heel to top of cuff: 5 inches
Pre-felting foot width: 6 inches

Gauge After Felting: Length post-felting toe to heel: 11 inches
Length post-felting heel to cuff: 3 inches
Post-felting foot width: 5 inches

Abbreviations: CO- Cast on

Pattern Notes: My felting ratio was 1.27 inches unfelted to 1 inch felted. So to figure out how long you need to knit your slipper, multiply the length of your foot (toe to heel) by 1.27 and that will give you the unfelted length you need to knit. Keep in mind that your toe and heel will each make up 2.5 inches of knitting so be sure to begin your heel when you have 2.5 inches left to go.
Ex. My foot is 9 inches long. 9 * 1.27 = 11.43 ~ 11.5. So I would begin my heel once I have knit 9 inches from the point of the toe. 11.5 – 2.5 = 9 This number corresponds to ‘X’ in the pattern
Measure your foot in three places, around the ball of your foot (A), perpendicular to the sole at the start of your ankle (B) and around your ankle (C) according to diagram 1. If any of these measurements are larger than 10 inches, you will need to go up a loom size. The directions will be very similar except you will use a different chart for the toe and heel and will need to use different peg numbers when working on the cuff.

Wrap instructions- Remove the loop that is on the peg being careful not to drop it. Wrap the working yarn around that peg from front to back. Replace the loop you removed. Continue working in pattern.

Instructions:
Place markers on Pegs 1 and 16 according to diagram 2. Starting with peg 16, co 16 stitches using e-wrap cast on. Work pegs 1-16 according to these instructions for the toe:
1. e-wrap pegs 1-15, wrap peg 16
2. e-wrap pegs 15-2, wrap peg 1
3. e-wrap pegs 2-14, wrap peg 15
4. e-wrap pegs 14-3, wrap peg 2
5. e-wrap pegs 3-13, wrap peg 14
6. e-wrap pegs 13-4, wrap peg 3
7. e-wrap pegs 4-12, wrap peg 13
8. e-wrap pegs 12-5, wrap peg 4
9. e-wrap pegs 5-11, wrap peg 12
10. e-wrap pegs 11-6, wrap peg 5
11. e-wrap pegs 6-12, on the pegs that have been wrapped, knit 2 over 1
12. e-wrap pegs 12-5
13. e-wrap pegs 5-13
14. e-wrap pegs 13-4
15. e-wrap pegs 4-14
16. e-wrap pegs 14-3
17. e-wrap pegs 3-15
18. e-wrap pegs 15-2
19. e-wrap pegs 2-16
20. e-wrap pegs 16-1

You will now have 16 stitches on pegs, with the cast on edge loose. Reach into the loom and place the cast on edge evenly on the empty pegs on the loom.

Begin to e-wrap around, counter-clockwise, until your work measures X inches from the point of the toe, ending on peg 1. Now repeat rows 1-20 of the toe. This makes your heel.

E-wrap counter-clockwise to peg 23. Turn and work back to peg 24. Work back and forth between these two pegs until the cuff is the length you want. Remember to multiply the felted length you want by 1.27 to get the length you actually need to knit.

Use the double crochet bind off or your preferred stretchy bind off method.

Larger Loom Pattern:
This will make an 11.5-12 inch diameter slipper
Place markers on Pegs 1 and 18. Starting with peg 18, co 18 stitches with e-wrap cast on. Work pegs 1-18 according to these instructions for the toe:
1. e-wrap pegs 1-17, wrap peg 18
2. e-wrap pegs 17-2, wrap peg 1
3. e-wrap pegs 2-16, wrap peg 17
4. e-wrap pegs 16-3, wrap peg 2
5. e-wrap pegs 3-15, wrap peg 16
6. e-wrap pegs 15-4, wrap peg 3
7. e-wrap pegs 4-14, wrap peg 15
8. e-wrap pegs 14-5, wrap peg 4
9. e-wrap pegs 5-13, wrap peg 14
10. e-wrap pegs 13-6, wrap peg 5
11. e-wrap pegs 6-12, wrap peg 13
12. e-wrap pegs 12-7, wrap peg 6
13. e-wrap pegs 7-13, on the pegs that have been wrapped, knit 2 over 1
14. e-wrap pegs 13-6
15. e-wrap pegs 6-14
16. e-wrap pegs 14-5
17. e-wrap pegs 5-15
18. e-wrap pegs 15-4
19. e-wrap pegs 4-16
20. e-wrap pegs 16-3
21. e-wrap pegs 3-17
22. e-wrap pegs 17-2
23. e-wrap pegs 2-18
24. e-wrap pegs 18-1

You will now have 18 stitches on pegs, with the cast on edge loose. Reach into the loom and place the cast on edge evenly on the empty pegs on the loom.

Begin to e-wrap around, counter-clockwise, until your work measures X inches from the point of the toe, ending on peg 1. Now repeat rows 1-24 of the toe. This makes your heel.

E-wrap counter-clockwise to peg 27 Turn and work back to peg 28 Work back and forth between these two pegs until the cuff is the length you want. Remember to multiply the felted length you want by 1.27 to get the length you actually need to knit.

Use the double crochet bind off or your preferred stretchy bind off method.

To felt the slippers:
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter03/FEATfelthis.html You will probably want to base your felting on measurements instead of feel of fabric. Make sure your slipper does not become shorter than the length of your foot. Also measure around the widest part of your foot (usually the arch) and divide that number in half. Make sure that the width of the slipper does not go below that number. There is some stretch in felting, but not a lot.

To needle felt on the slippers:
For good basic instructions visit: http://sewingneedlework.suite101.com/article.cfm/how_to_needle_felt
For more advanced and 3-D techniques visit: http://www.livingfelt.com/freefeltingpatterns/NeedleFeltingSurfaceDesign.html
To needle felt, you will need black felt and white wool. I use the craft sheets of felt you can get from just about any craft store. First cut out the face, ears and hoof shapes according to diagram 3 (make sure they are small enough to fit onto the slippers).
Since we are working with a background that is an odd shape, I like using a foam mat on the inside of the slipper. A two-inch thick piece of furniture padding cut to fit into the toe of the slipper is perfect. Using the basic directions, needle felt the hooves, face and ears on according to the picture.

Now with the white wool, make cotton ball size poofs. They don’t need to be dense, just very fluffy and light. Now felt several of these on.
Leave these pieces more soft and lofty, i.e. you don’t have to needle these as much. Add enough of these to make a fluffy, fleecy sheep.


To make the slippers non-skid: I am a klutz, I admit it. The way I avoid serious injury to myself when wearing slippers on a tile floor is to use fabric paint to add designs to the bottom. You can write messages, draw designs, designate right and left. This blog has an awesome idea if you want more full coverage: http://www.nicolehindes.com/2007/09/18/making-slippers-non-slip/

Copyright © Nadine Borovicka 2009 All Rights Reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or distributed without written consent from the author.